Thursday, June 28, 2007
Surfing in Malibu- Day 2
We went back out this past Sunday and I went with some new people. My friend Kevin, me, Yung, Chaz and Lauren went and I met Chaz and Lauren at the movie screening the night before- they are friends and co-workers with Yung at Kaiser. We are all basically beginners, except for Chaz who has been surfing on and off for some time. Again, I didn’t have time to buy my board so thanks Ly for letting me use yours—I promise I will get on it and get my own soon! This day was so nice, except the waves were really small. I know, like I am a pro or something and can even handle big waves, right? The sets were just really far apart and although every single one of us caught a wave right after getting in the water, it was like another 10 or 15 minutes until the next set would roll in. The water is getting warmer and I think I am going to buy a shorty since I don’t need a full wet suit. Who knows, in a few weeks I might not even need one at all! It was really surprising how warm the water was actually.
After about an hour or two in the water, the waves were getting weaker so we decided to paddle out to the point which looked a lot closer than it actually was! So needless to say, the next day, my shoulders were hurting so bad! It was a great time though and we are going to try and all go again soon- hopefully this weekend. Ron couldn’t make it because his knee has been bothering him but hopefully it gets better soon so he can come out and play! We missed you this weekend….